Mixed leaves in an old recycling box: red mustard, green-in-snow, tatsoi, mustard frills and komatsuna |
I’m always on the
look-out for different containers for plants. I’ve grown oriental leaves in the
wooden crates used to deliver veg to the supermarket, I’ve raised microleaves
in the shallow plastic trays used for packaging fruit and veg, I’ve grown herbs
in a makeshift vertical garden using an over-the-door shoe-holder, and as an
allotment owner, I am well-versed in the art of making raised beds out of
pallets. Often these containers are more convenient than conventional pots:
round isn’t always the best shape if you’re growing a mix of things in the one
pot.
Last year our local
council gave us wheelie bins to use for throwing out items for recycling, to
replace the two 55-litre capacity boxes we’d had previously – one for newspaper and
bottles, the other for everything else. No-one appeared to be responsible for
taking away the old boxes, so I collected up the ones in best nick and have
found they make excellent seed beds (I started off both leeks and chicory
in a recycling box this year), and are particularly good for growing cut-and-come-again salad leaves. With a box kept just outside the back door, I have a
variety of leaves available whenever I want them.
If some of the plants
start to bolt or if they just look straggly, I’ll pick one last harvest, uproot
them and sow the next batch.
Right now, with the
long days and the night temperatures beginning to warm up, they will germinate
quickly and give you edible leaves in about four weeks. But you can sow seeds
for salad leaves at just about any time of the year. In winter, growth will be
much slower and to keep your salad box going you will probably need to protect
the box with a cloche or fleece.
Carrots grown in a box - seeds sown in March directly into seed compost, then covered with vermiculite. |
To start with you
need to source your box. Choose one in reasonably good nick and wash it
thoroughly. Next you will need to make some drainage holes in the bottom. Then
it needs to be filled with compost. Our recycling boxes are 40cm deep – rather deeper
than the salad roots will go down, so rather than waste good compost buried at
the bottom of a recycling box, I spread gravel or small pebbles along the
bottom, to help with drainage, and then add a layer or two of leaf mould, spent
compost or mulch – any good organic matter to fill the box up halfway. Then I top up with fresh
seed compost.
Before sowing, water
the compost thoroughly. Then scatter the seeds thinly on top of the compost –
you can mix seeds randomly or sow different varieties in blocks or thin lines,
as I have in the photo. Finally sprinkle a very fine layer of seed compost over
the surface so the seeds are just covered. At this time of year, you don’t need
to cover the box to keep the seeds warm, but if you’re sowing late in the year
or in early spring, you can cover with a clear plastic propagator lid if you
have one, or with horticultural fleece (I have also improvised with an
insulating cover of clingfilm in the past, when I haven’t had either a lid or
any fleece to hand).
You may also need to protect
your salad seedlings against slugs and snails if these are a pest in your
garden. I run a strip of copper tape along the rim of the box: the molluscs won’t
slide over copper as it reacts with their mucus. My particular pest in
recycling box beds is my own cat, who likes to either sleep on them, flattening
the seedlings, or, worse, using them as a litter tray. A square of plastic mesh
over the top, fixed with net pegs, keeps him off.
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